Days 34-35: Good Morning Vietnam

Hi Friends.

Last night we arrived in Vietnam.  We are staying in Ho Chi Minh City - known by many as Saigon - and still referred to affectionately that way by many of the locals.  Below are a couple of pictures of the city from our hotel room window.  Before sharing more of our experiences I need to give a little context for this visit.

It is fair to say this stop is the one filled with the most mixed emotions.  Craig's dad was in the Navy and was stationed here for a few years during the war.  I also had a few uncles who served during the war.  Unfortunately ten years ago we lost my father in law (Dad H) much too young.  As was the case for so many young men the war was an experience that took a toll physically and mentally.  That said, even after everything he went through, he was one of the sweetest men you would ever meet.  He was a terrific husband, father and grandfather.  The sacrifices made by those who served and their families are something the rest of us can never fully comprehend.  I would ask that each of you take a moment and, in your own way, think of all of those who have sacrificed for all of us (and so many that continue to do so) and give them thanks.  Coming here is something Craig wanted to do but it is also something that is difficult.  As he already has said, he is glad we came but it isn't something he will really be able to enjoy.

Ok, back to the visit.  Today was a very full day.  We started with a tour of the city.  We chose to do a small group tour and ended up lucky as we were the only two people.  Our guide was Duc - he was great.  He did a terrific job of providing a lot of historical information and stories along the way.  Here's a picture with him.

Vietnam is a country that has a history of occupation by other countries.  It was occupied by China for over 1,000 years.  After that it was occupied by the French for ~75 years.  Then of course there was the very sad civil war that America was drawn into at the request of South Vietnam.  The result is a country that is a mixture of many different cultures, foods, architecture styles and strife.

We started the day at the Vietnam Notre Dame Cathedral - something the French brought with them.  It is currently undergoing renovation but was beautiful from the outside.

Next stop was at the local market - it was quite an experience.  There were blocks and blocks of stalls selling a lot of fresh meat, fish, produce and homemade goods.  I had the opportunity to visit something similar in China on a business trip - but it still is a bit overwhelming and so different than what we have in the States.  The meat is out in the open, in the heat and all of the elements.  The sellers are squatting on the tables - often barefoot - right where the food is being displayed.

We also had a chance to visit a lacquer facility - it was actually very cool.  The amount of time spent on each piece is really quite amazing - and all manual.  They crush shells and painstakingly arrange them to form different patterns.  They then go through multiple cycles of smoothing, painting, lacquering - for even a small piece it takes months with larger ones taking almost 9 months to complete.  The artistry and patience is really impressive.  We were able to take a couple of pictures of the workers - and ended up buying a few small pieces (its hard on such a long trip - no room for souvenirs!).

The next stop was what they now refer to as the Reunification Palace - it previously was where the president lived and conducted all business prior to the end of the Vietnam war.  We were able to tour the building.  We saw the rooms where the meetings were held - you can only imagine the conversations - and debates - held in those rooms.  They shaped history.

We also saw the old communications equipment - how far we have come!

During part of the tour there is a great spot for a picture.  Our guide had us wait while a Vietnamese couple had their picture taken.  When they saw us, the husband got very excited and asked us to join them for a picture.  Their daughter was taking the picture - and they took so many!  He was so sweet - heartily shaking our hands (especially Craig's) - and was so thankful that we took a picture with them.

The last stop was the War Remnants Museum - basically where they have captured US military equipment on display outside with a lot of propaganda films inside.  We skipped the inside but did walk around to look at the different aircraft and tanks.  We actually were able to take shelter under the wing of one of the planes during some torrential rainfall (it is monsoon season!).

To wrap up the day we went on a Street Food Walking Tour.  We both agreed this was an opportunity to really see and experience the city.  It took us out of our comfort zone many times - both the locations and the food - but it was a great experience.  The people are warm but there is a lot of poverty and seeing the conditions many lived in was difficult.  Below is just one picture of many things we saw, but it was heart wrenching.

So, back to the food tour.  To add to the experience as soon as the tour started the rain started - hard!

The craziest part of the night was actually not the food - it was the traffic.  It is impossible to describe.  Craig and I love to walk - a lot.  However, here simply crossing the street was an adventure and left us a bit exhausted by the end of the night.  There are so many motorbikes - and as the Vietnamese people readily acknowledge - there are no real laws of the road especially for the bikes.  As one of our guides said - green means go, yellow means go, red means still go!  They literally come from every direction - even on the sidewalks.  Many intersections have no lights (although those only help slightly) - so you are dodging both motorbikes and cars and busses and...  When we were not with our guide our strategy was to find a local and follow closely behind when crossing a street :)

We were able to experience a lot of different food - and ate with the locals.  Sometimes in alleys, or on the sidewalk, or on the front of the first floor of their houses (very common).  We tried beef noodle soup - and were a bit nervous because the beef was rare - but it was so good!

Next up was roasted duck - they literally roast the entire duck and cut it up while you are standing there.

We then had a Vietnamese doughnut with a sweet filling from a stand on a street corner - very good.

Next stop was for some coffee and tea - Vietnam grows their own coffee and they are very proud of it.  We were excited because it is drip coffee!!  Since leaving the states we have had a lot of espresso - so having "real" coffee has been a treat.

We then stopped for some spring rolls - which we made using freshly made rice paper with pork and vegetable filling.  And we also had some fried "chicken egg" (i.e. what we always eat and just call egg - but they have a lot of different types of eggs - so we were glad to hear it was chicken!)

We were so full we asked to skip the last food stop and ended the night with a local beer.  Very refreshing.

A very long, full day but a great introduction to the city.  We loved meeting our guides - they were both so great and really helped to make the day special.

Tomorrow we head out for a day trip outside of the city.  It will be another emotional day but hopefully another good one.  Until then, enjoy the ride!